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| Figure number: File name: |
10-05 10_05.JPG |
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| Title: | WAVES AND BEACHES |
| Caption: | (a) Deep-water wave form (water depth is greater than 0.5 L, where L is wavelength). The curving black line is the water surface and the thick vertical black line is a pier or some other fixed object that can act as a reference point for determining the wave period (T). A black dashed line connects the bottom of the troughs and is the reference line for calculating wave height (H). (b) Motion of water particles associated with wave movement in deep water. The water particles follow the path of the arrows in the black circles. Wave movement is from right to left. (c) Motion of water particles as waves approach the shore. The water particles follow the path of the arrows in the circles. The waves are approaching the shore from right to left. |
| Keywords: | shorelines, shores, coasts, coastlines, oceans, water, waves, wave heights, wavelengths, troughs, crests, surf, breakers, beaches |